Although the MIKO Figure Suit pattern is available in two height groups, you may still need to add or take away length through the crotch. All bodies are unique, after all!
I’ll give you an example of a specific situation to help illustrate why you may need to make this pattern alteration:
A member from DIY Bikini had a client whose waist and hip/glute measurements were 29″ and 35″, respectively. Based on the MIKO Sewing Pattern sizing, you can see that her measurements spanned a couple of sizes.
The solution was to make the size Large in order to best fit the client’s waist. But, the hip/glute measurement of the pattern was significantly larger than the client’s hip/glute measurement.
The important thing to note is that the width of the pattern through the hips is not the problem.
The real issue is that the crotch length is mathematically correlated to the hip/glute measurement. So, to best fit the client’s proportions, the appropriate pattern alteration to make was to adjust the crotch length.
Let’s go through this specific alteration in pictures! First, let’s alter the crotch length through the back piece:
Step 1: Draw a line 3/8″ away from the crotch adjustment line
Step 2: Cut the pattern piece at the crotch adjustment line. Then shift the lower cut piece up to the newly drawn line. Tape the cut pieces together.
Step 3: True the joggled joint, then trim away the excess.
Now it’s time to adjust the crotch length through the front pattern piece:
Step 4: Draw a line 1/8″ away from the crotch adjustment line.
Step 5: Cut the pattern piece at the crotch adjustment line. Then shift the lower cut piece up to the newly drawn line.
Step 6: Just like before, true the joggled joint and trim away any excess.
What about lengthening the pattern?
If you need to lengthen the pattern, cut the pieces at the crotch adjustment line and spread the cut pieces apart. This would require you to have an extra sheet of paper behind the pattern pieces.
Refer to this blog post on how to lengthen pattern pieces.
A helpful guideline:
Using the pattern size S as a baseline, the following adjustments can be made at the front and back crotch adjustment lines to either lengthen or shorten your pattern.
For example, if you need to adjust your pattern from a size L to a size XS, reduce the back pattern length by a total of 3/8″.